Altesino is, deservedly so, a famous and reliable name in Tuscan wine. There are a Brunello di Montalcino ($60) and a Brunello di Montalcino Riserva ($150), and for special occasions you will be happy with these wines. They both can use a few years of bottle age, though. The Rosso di Montalcino ($30) is worthy of a little more time in bottle, but is splendid for tonight’s oxtail ragù with pappardelle and endive salad. Grilled bread with a touch of olive oil and coarse sea salt, you bet. The Rosso is beguiling, full of ripe cherry notes that give way to more mushroom and black pepper. All in all, a fabulous wine.