Canadian whisky has become the subject of national discussion amongst drinkers, distillers, and bartenders; it arouses both pride and shame. Beverage professionals and cocktail enthusiasts agree its popularity, past and present, is unquestionable, but there are concerns for its future, debate pitting Canadian whisky against Canadian rye.
Young Canadian drinkers are culturally programmed to order rye and ginger from the bar, prompting small, slightly effervescent highballs that taste of sugar, soda, and not much else. The rye grain, when distilled, has the capacity to reveal a spicy and magnificent spirit, but it has sadly been removed from prominence in Canadian whisky. For over 50 years, distillers across the country have shifted to corn as their primary grain, and as a result, generations of drinkers have been under the impression they are drinking rye, when in fact they could be sipping an understated, easy-to-drink Canadian whisky. Without laws to regulate labelling, the majority of our beloved ryes are in fact nothing of the sort; essentially, “rye” stands in only as a nickname.
Rye-based whisky is an American invention that immigrated north in the 19th century with pioneering distillers, most notably and effectively by Hiram Walker. His distillery, established in 1858, produced our country’s greatest contribution to global spirits: Canadian Club. Though now corn-based, too, this essential whisky’s iconic label has long-thrived where others have failed. It has persevered through restrictive laws and outright prohibition, to stand proud and revered in popular culture.
A bartender’s functional concerns centre on cocktail construction. American ryes are particularly adored for their feisty tones, and while there are very few true rye whiskies produced in Canada today, the ones that do exist are typically lighter than their southern counterparts. Fortunately for all, a rye revival is making its way back into the glass, as the noble grain returns to these distillers’ artistic arsenal. In B.C., the five ryes to look out for are Alberta Premium, Alberta Spring, Centennial, Century Reserve and Wiser’s Legacy.
Photo: Mark Reynolds.
