Olivier Leflaive Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume is a great example of what we are missing if we think of Chablis in the old Paul Masson days of marketing approachable white quaffing wine. Chablis is a nice town, a district, and the northernmost appellation in France’s Burgundy region. The Leflaive is a fine example of what makes real Chablis so great: balance, structure, even power, remarkable for lightly oaked chardonnay that trends towards the lean side, coming as it does from such flinty, clay-based soils. One of the world’s great wine regions, and often at prices that look like serious bargains when compared with their illustrious neighbours to the south, $45.