• On a heathery knoll on Orkney’s largest island, called the Mainland, sits the Ring of Brodgar, a Neolithic henge and stone circle. It is part of the UNESCO World Heritage site known as the Heart of Neolithic Orkney.

  • John O’Groats House Hotel was first built on the seafront of Northeastern Scotland in 1875. Following years of neglect it was restored, and these Nordic-inspired wooden houses were added. It reopened as the Inn at John O’Groats.

  • The John O’Groats signpost is one of the most photographed signs in the world. It marks the end of Britain’s longest cycle and walking route from Lands End, Cornwall. Locals call it “end of the world.”

  • MV Pentland Venture is a passenger ferry between John O’Groats and Orkney that crosses the Pentland Firth, a strait well known for its mighty tides reaching 30 kilometres an hour—making them among the fastest in the world.

  • A local man helps dock the MV Pentland Venture when it arrives at Burwick, a small hamlet and port on the island of South Ronaldsay, Orkney. It is the closest Orkney harbour to the Scottish mainland.

  • Called the Churchill Barriers, these rock and concrete structures were built during the 1940s by Italian prisoners of war as a naval defense to protect anchorage at the Scapa Flow, a body of water in the Orkney Islands.

  • The craze of “yarn bombing”—where mystery knitters decorate public spaces—has appeared in Kirkwall, the main Orkney town. This work is in front of St Magnus Cathedral, founded in 1137 by Viking Earl Rognvald, nephew of St Magnus.

  • Kirkwall is the capital of Orkney. It was first mentioned in the “Orkneyinga Saga”, an historical chronicle that began in the 9th century. Today, the town has a population of approximately 9,293.

  • Farming has been a way of life in Orkney for centuries. Due to a push to adopt renewable energy, Orkney has the potential to generate enough with wind power and marine energy to supply electricity to half of Scotland.

  • Orkney is renowned for the quality of its beef. The robust cattle must endure strong winds, driving rains, and short summers. Agricultural shows are a focus for farming communities, culminating with the prestigious Orkney County Show every August.

  • On the coast of the Bay of Skraill is the ancient village of Skara Brae: Western Europe’s most complete Neolithic village, older than the Great Pyramids. It was first discovered in the winter of 1850.

  • Orkney’s Catholic Italian Chapel was built by Italian prisoners of war during WWII. Most of the interior decoration was done by prisoner Domenico Chiocchetti, who stayed behind to finish the church even after the war was over.

Orkney, Scotland

Neolithic history.

The Orkney Islands, an archipelago located off the northeastern tip of mainland Scotland, is often referred to as the Edge of the World. One way to reach Orkney is to take the passenger ferry from John O’Groats, which crosses the choppy waters of the Pentland Firth, landing at the small village of Burwick on the island of South Ronaldsay. There is magic to Orkney that you feel as you approach. The wind is a constant presence, while sunshine alternates with rain, creating rainbows that arc across the horizon. Its coastlines have sandy beaches and the skies are thick with sea birds. The land of Orkney is fairly flat, with low hills of purple heather and grazing sheep and cows.

The history of these islands dates back to the Neolithic era—the last period of the Stone Age—as evidenced by ancient villages and mysterious standing stones dating back farther than 3100 BCE. In the 9th century, the Vikings ruled the Orkneys. Four hundred years later, they came under Norwegian jurisdiction. By the 15th century, Orkney had become part of Scotland. A designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, the islands’ archaeological remains include the Stone Age village of Skara Brae, the Neolithic chambered cairn of Maes Howe, and the megaliths of a henge, such as the Ring of Brodgar. Bird watching is popular, and shoreline hikes allow exploration not only of the beaches, but also the rugged cliffs of St. John’s Head and Old Man of Hoy, a 449-foot stone sea stack that is one of the island’s most famous landmarks. There is also a vibrant arts and crafts scene, delicious local produce, and, of course, Highland Park whiskey.

Photos by Tallulah.

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October 9, 2015